University of Twente Student Theses


Water Particle Velocities under Shoaling and Breaking Waves

Broek, H.J. van de (2015) Water Particle Velocities under Shoaling and Breaking Waves.

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Abstract:Sea waves approaching the shore will change in shape as a result of shoaling and wave breaking. This change in shape is reflected in the near-bottom velocities and is an essential mechanism that drives nearshore sand transport. The goal of this thesis is to determine the level of accuracy of the Isobe & Horikawa (1982), Elfrink et al. (2006) and Ruessink et al. (2012) parameterisations to predict wave-generated near-bottom velocities as a function of the surface wave characteristics. The parameterisations are used to predict near-bottom velocities from measured wave conditions, and the predicted velocities are compared to the measured velocities. The experimental data come from recent experiments carried out in a large-scale wave flume facility as part of the Sand Transport under Irregular and Breaking Waves Conditions (SINBAD) research project. The goal of that project is to improve understanding of the near-bed hydrodynamics and sand transport processes occurring under large-scale irregular and breaking wave conditions, and to develop a practical model which incorporates these new understandings to better predict sand transport under waves. Better understanding of the parameterisations that will be tested in this report will contribute to the development of the practical sand transport model. Analysis of the comparison of velocities predicted by the parameterisations and measured in the experiments shows that none of the three methods satisfactory predicts the near-bed velocities. The results have implications for current morphological models that use these parameterisations and for the development of a new practical sand transport model within the SINBAD project.
Item Type:Essay (Bachelor)
Faculty:ET: Engineering Technology
Subject:56 civil engineering
Programme:Civil Engineering BSc (56952)
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